Wines are now being made in all 50 U.S. states, and the quality in many of these off-the-beaten-wine-trail places is surprisingly good. One such winery is Wyncroft, in southwestern Michigan. I recently had the pleasure of meeting Jim Lester, Wyncroft’s owner and winemaker, over dinner at Oya with a small group of oenoscenti.

Lester produces Chardonnay with a super-long, toasty finish, a juicy off-dry Riesling and lychee-scented Gewurztraminer, and a Bordeaux-style blend he calls “Shou” -- the Chinese word for longevity. I tasted the 2005 – a barrel sample not yet released – so I can’t testify to the wine’s longevity. I can say, however, that if I can score any of it, it won’t last long in my cellar.

Oya’s sommelier, Andrew Stover, was also taken with the wines and is adding the Wyncroft Chardonnay and Riesling to his list, so Washingtonians will have a chance to experience some of Michigan’s finest.