Food

Little Serow Makes Bon Appétit’s “Hot 10” List of New Restaurants

Dining editor Andrew Knowlton raves about the restaurant's “uncompromisingly intense” flavors.

Chef Johnny Monis in the kitchen at Little Serow. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Little Serow has made Bon Appétits “Hot 10” list of new restaurants. Dining editor Andrew Knowlton, who culled the list from 50 nominees, says he walked by Johnny Monis’s underground Thai spot twice before finding it. Once inside, however, he says the dishes helped him understand why Thai is the current “it” food among American chefs. “Authentic or not, who cares? With flavors this revelatory, this
uncompromisingly intense, the only thing you need to worry about is how
to get a table.”

The writeup includes a Q&A with Monis and partner Anne Marler in which Marler discusses the thinking behind the restaurant’s much-commented-on sea green walls. “You’ll see it on a lot of rusted, corrugated roofs in Thailand.”

Good luck getting a table now.