The mom-and-pop is ordinarily a simple place, humble and homey. And by one measure, this one, across from the legendary diner Chick & Ruth’s Delly on Annapolis’s Main Street, obeys convention. It doesn’t take long to discover, however, that what young vets Jeremy and Michelle Hoffman have come up with is a sophisticated, smartly run operation that belies its low-key intentions. Jeremy—an alum of the kitchens at Per Se, Nobu Fifty Seven, and Restaurant Eve—has crafted a small, focused menu that showcases both his global training (in particular, a facility with Asian flavors) and his Pennsylvania Dutch heritage (say, a lusty plate of pork with sauerkraut). His rendition of a tandy cake, the packaged chocolate/peanut-butter cookie-cake he and many Pennsylvanians grew up snacking on, is the best kind of upscale homage: as delicious as it is affectionate.
Don’t miss: Minced-pork lettuce wraps; Old Bay shrimp toast; pierogies; bánh mì with house-made pâté; hand-cut fries; sauerkraut salad; pan-roasted fluke.