“It’s not like Domino’s,” our 18-year-old server explains earnestly. No, it definitely is not. Thanks to chef/owner Tony Conte’s fine-dining background, Inferno isn’t like your average Neapolitan-pizza joint, either. The former Oval Room chef has mastered a perfectly blistered crust, tangy tomato sauce, and uncrowded combination of seasonal toppings such as egg and black truffles or lemon-braised fennel and prosciutto. Don’t skip the small selection of appetizers, either—Conte’s finesse and skill really come through in the striking flavors and artistic presentations. Condiments are particularly vibrant, whether a watermelon marmalade with burrata or plum-ginger jam with ember-roasted beets. Inexpensive.
Also great: Ember-roasted potato-and-onion pizza with bacon; sweet-sausage pizza with peppers; prosciutto with peach mostarda; vanilla soft-serve.