Chef Nick Stefanelli isn’t afraid of unusual pairings—starting with his fine-dining Italian on a gritty warehouse row near Union Market. (No matter, Michelle Obama has visited three times.) The intimate space—industrial-chic epitomized—offers tasting menus of three, four, or five courses, including obligatory dessert, and a six-course chef’s choice. Portion sizes can be haphazard, as are the pacing and lengthy spiels; we suggest going with five courses to feel satiated. Our tactic: Home in on the meat section of the menu for its petite but flavor-rich cuts, and sample hedonistically from pastas. Very expensive.
Also great: Veal tartare; broccoli pasta with red wine and olives; gnocchi with mushrooms; duck with fennel; veal loin and cheek with pistachio gremolata.