We’re often stumped by the term “upscale casual,” but if there’s any place that helps clarify the description, it’s this waterfront seafood spot, as destination-worthy for oysters and beers before a Nats game as it is for celebrating with bubbles and a triple-decker shellfish tower. Daniel Perron’s menu nimbly balances finer-dining dishes—think langoustines with caviar—with creations that elicit weeknight cravings (we’ll take a bowl of his oyster stew anytime). The vibe, too, walks a line. Service is knowledgeable and attentive, and an elegant rum cart roves the room. But the place isn’t too upscale for ambient indie rock or, come summer, a pop-up rosé garden. Moderate.
Also great: Hamachi crudo; clams casino; curried-seafood risotto; passionfruit panna cotta.