The best place to sit in this rowhouse-turned-izakaya is at the downstairs counter, where you can watch 71-year-old Hiroshi Seki slice chunks of fatty tuna and slivers of Hokkaido scallops. But the Japanese pub, run with daughter Cizuka Seki, does much more than a gorgeous sashimi platter. A sake-friendly menu of grilled, fried, steamed, and raw small plates includes crave-inducing seafood fritters, cold soba, and a flaky yellowtail jaw that needs nothing more than a lemon squeeze. Consult the hand-scrawled list of specials for what’s seasonal, whether monkfish liver (the foie gras of the sea) or snappy cucumbers with miso-cured barley. Moderate.
Also great: Whole surume squid; tuna tataki; fried tofu in dashi; tempura special; rice balls.