Plenty of chefs take a local and seasonal approach. So what makes Rob Weland’s tranquil, wood-toned Barracks Row restaurant exceptional? The chef/owner “walks the walk,” as industry folks say, when it comes to hyper-local sourcing—Virginia bison steak, Atlantic porgy—and does so with creative turns. Linger on the lengthy small-plates menu, with options such as sage fritters stuffed with house-made sausage or earthy rye toast piled with smoked trout, crème fraîche, and caviar. The menu changes often, but the kitchen’s execution is consistent. Expensive.
Also great: Fig Manhattan; Brussels sprouts with tonnato sauce; toasted farro pasta with sausage and clams; pumpkin sundae.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
