Plenty of chefs take a local and seasonal approach. So what makes Rob Weland’s tranquil, wood-toned Barracks Row restaurant exceptional? The chef/owner “walks the walk,” as industry folks say, when it comes to hyper-local sourcing—Virginia bison steak, Atlantic porgy—and does so with creative turns. Linger on the lengthy small-plates menu, with options such as sage fritters stuffed with house-made sausage or earthy rye toast piled with smoked trout, crème fraîche, and caviar. The menu changes often, but the kitchen’s execution is consistent. Expensive.
Also great: Fig Manhattan; Brussels sprouts with tonnato sauce; toasted farro pasta with sausage and clams; pumpkin sundae.