There’s nothing shocking about seeing steak tartare with tater tots, beets with baba ghanoush, and mapo chicken on the same menu—the wonder is that chef Rob Rubba makes these dishes feel at home next to one another. His quirky style leans most heavily on the Asian pantry (the gnocchi with pork kimchee is justly famous), but Rubba doesn’t forget his roots. The pretty restaurant is named after his late grandmother, and her zucchini-bread recipe is one of the stars of the menu thanks to the chef’s masterful addition—a slathering of foie gras mousse and a sprinkling of bee pollen. Expensive.
Also great: duck dinner for two; English muffin with fried chicken (brunch only); donburi with pulled pork (brunch only).