When Russell Smith took over this minimalist Wolfgang Puck satellite from longtime chef Scott Drewno last year, he widened the kitchen’s scope. Now you’ll find flavors from not just China but also Japan, Thailand, and Vietnam. Wisely, Smith didn’t ditch the dumplings that have made the place popular, especially at brunch. His versions include shrimp with carrot-tinted skins as well as a terrific vegetarian riff on pot stickers filled with surprisingly deceptive “meat.” His soups and curries, including a wonderfully satisfying Japanese short-rib stew made tangy-sweet with Asaju pear, are exactly what we crave on a cold day. Very expensive.
Also great: Tuna tartare; chicken wontons; duck khao soi; filet mignon au poivre; carrot cake; banana baked Alaska.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
