When Russell Smith took over this minimalist Wolfgang Puck satellite from longtime chef Scott Drewno last year, he widened the kitchen’s scope. Now you’ll find flavors from not just China but also Japan, Thailand, and Vietnam. Wisely, Smith didn’t ditch the dumplings that have made the place popular, especially at brunch. His versions include shrimp with carrot-tinted skins as well as a terrific vegetarian riff on pot stickers filled with surprisingly deceptive “meat.” His soups and curries, including a wonderfully satisfying Japanese short-rib stew made tangy-sweet with Asaju pear, are exactly what we crave on a cold day. Very expensive.
Also great: Tuna tartare; chicken wontons; duck khao soi; filet mignon au poivre; carrot cake; banana baked Alaska.