Sometimes the secret to great style is simplicity. That’s certainly the case at Amy Brandwein’s elegant CityCenterDC osteria, where a wood-fired oven elevates high-quality ingredients. A standout this season: crispy, paper-thin slices of eggplant dressed up in honey and toasted almond. Housemade pastas, such as fettuccine with wood-roasted mushrooms or taglioni in ’nduja butter draped with an over-easy egg, are always en vogue. Expensive.