Even on the chilliest of weeknights, this Cathedral Heights eatery is hopping. Part of the appeal is the mirrored dining room, which evokes cinema-ready bistros of Paris. Another part is chef Francis Layrle, who has cooked for seven French ambassadors. We happily sopped up the jus in a bowl of garlicky calamari Provençale and swiped frites into a ramekin of mayo. The cassoulet is one of the best we’ve had—made with coco Tarbais beans, a French variety grown locally for Layrle. Expensive.
Also great: Beausoleil oysters; Dover sole; steak frites; lamb with rosemary jus; bourride; apple tart.