Chefs love to brag about their house-made charcuterie, but no one does it quite as well as butcher/chef Nate Anda. His checklist menu of offbeat meats such as Negroni-inspired salami or wild-boar pâté is easily the highlight of this moody dining room. Meaty small plates make for hearty grazing alongside a well-curated selection of quirky wines, tart and funky beers, and bitter cocktails. But the best way to please a crowd is the crispy pork pata, a hunk of tender leg meat served with salted Thai chilies, pickles, and warm lard tortillas for assemble-your-own tacos. Moderate.
Also great: pho-braised pig head; pickled half-smoke; “red menace” spread; wild-mushroom-and-kale salad; beef-fat fries; Wagyu brisket with Taleggio fondue.