James Alefantis’s pizzeria is part late-night music venue, part neighborhood kiddo gathering place, part Ping Pong room. We’re here for the pizza, on thinly stretched, lightly charred dough. The crust is terrific, but what sets the pies apart most is the sauce from Toigo Farms tomatoes. It perks up everything from meatballs to garlic knots. Don’t skip the jerk-style wings with creamy horseradish dip. In fact, get an extra cup—it doubles as the perfect accessory for that pizza crust. Also good: Mama’s special dumpling; green-onion pancake; Beijing soy-sauce noodles.