About Kao Sarn Thai
Arin Lapakulchai’s tiny storefront—the lone Thai restaurant in the mainly Vietnamese Eden Center—isn’t the most boundary-pushing kitchen around. Instead, the chef turns out quietly thrilling renditions of takeout standards—succulent chicken satay, flaky curry-filled empanadas, vivid drunken noodles. That’s not to say her shortlist of hits shies away from spice: Ask for things Thai hot and she’ll more than oblige. Also good: Pad see ew; eggplant with ground pork; crispy pork belly with string beans; khao soi.