You might not typically stray beyond your own neighborhood for pizza. But Tony Conte’s pizza is destination pizza. The former Oval Room chef traded a fine-dining career for a wood-fired oven in the burbs, and his pedigree still shows. Neapolitan-style pies with chewy crusts showcase the best farmers-market finds or, better yet, white truffles from Alba. A stellar lineup of appetizers, including roasted-cauliflower “carbonara” and king-oyster mushrooms mimicking pulled pork, are worth a road trip on their own. Same goes for the dreamiest soft-serve around. Moderate.