Simple dishes call for high-quality ingredients and an assured chef. This stylish CityCenterDC osteria has both. Chef/owner Amy Brandwein turns charred napa cabbage—yes, cabbage—into a revelation and has cured our duck fatigue with her tender, crisp-skinned leg confit. The menu changes daily, but it’s hard to go wrong with any of her house-made pastas, whether it’s ribbons of pappardelle with wood-roasted mushrooms and pear or carbonara-style gnocchi with sweetbreads. Wish you could cook with the same top-notch products? Brandwein sells them, including her pastas and sauces, in the adjoining market. Expensive.