Most anyone can relish a meal at Haidar Karoum’s glassy modern-American restaurant, but it’s a particular delight if you’ve tracked his cooking over his three decades in DC. The menu reads like a starry résumé. There are dishes that recall his early days with Nora Pouillon (glazed sablefish is delicious déjà vu) and his latter years at Proof/Estadio/Doi Moi (we never tire of his scallions with romesco or Vietnamese chicken). Such personal, variant expressions from work and travel don’t always make sense on the same table, but Karoum is what industry types call a “chef’s chef”—he lives in the kitchen, and his dishes are united by a keenly focused, unfussy style. Expensive.