Patrick O’Connell’s sumptuous Rappahannock County inn has been around for four decades, and just when you think you’ve seen all his culinary magic tricks, he pulls out a slew of new ones. A recent dinner began in the silk-shaded dining room with a razor-thin potato crisp holding pimiento cheese that would win blue ribbons. It ended with a trompe l’oeil pear crafted from cinnamon-pear cheesecake—a confection that tastes just as spectacular as it looks. In between, depending on which of the three tasting menus you choose, you might encounter a bison tenderloin enriched with foie gras and velvety truffle sauce or a fuchsia tangle of beet “fettuccine” with a generous quenelle of osetra caviar. For lovers of luxe mod-American dining and whimsical surprises—four-star popsicles, truffle-laden popcorn—there’s no better place to celebrate. Very expensive.