Fine dining of the white-tablecloth variety has largely gone the way of the butter mold. Which makes this elegant dining room—where male diners are in jackets (if not ties)—all the more special. The biggest draw: chef/owner Robert Wiedmaier’s prix fixe menus, available in three or seven courses. You can choose among plates such as buttery lobster navarin with lobster-filled ravioli, the most ethereal of boudin blancs, and a supremely flavorful pepper-encrusted entrecôte. This is the sort of place where you can rest in the knowledge that servers and sommeliers will know what you want—sometimes even before you do. Very expensive.