Food writers get this question a lot: Where do you go on your off-time? Consistently in the top tier of our list is this low-key seafood spot. It’s affiliated with ProFish, one of the area’s most dependable restaurant suppliers, and the quality is evident from the get-go. Don’t skip the smoked fish—all are created in-house—served with bagels and fixings. We haven’t tasted a crabcake with sweeter meat in years, and the fryer yields perfectly crunchy, plump shrimp . Places like this often let the seafood shine and tend not to pay as much attention to little things such as house-made tartar sauce and slaw. Here you realize what a difference those details make. Moderate.