Over cacio e pepe? We don’t blame you. Unless you’re talking about the cheeseless riff Kevin Tien has created at this sophisticated new follow-up to Himitsu. It’s a little Japanese (miso butter gives it its earthiness), a little Italian, and a lot innovative, like most of Tien’s startlingly good cooking. Right now, the biggest hits ping all over the globe: a Southern-picnic dip of mascarpone and pepper jelly (get it with a heel of beautiful sourdough); a plate of classic ricotta cavatelli with a not-so-classic, paprika-rich sauce; a shareable platter of Vietnamese caramel pork; and a gorgeously plat-ed molten cake oozing with Norwegian gjetost cheese. Expensive.