100 Very Best 2020At night, when Aaron Silverman’s cafe morphs into a whimsical res-taurant with a several-course tasting menu, our favorite perch is at the high-top communal table in the glass-walled conservatory. The menu might flow from airy “angel” eggs (meringue replaces the whites) to shrimp-tomato bisque with grilled-cheese soldiers to a crispy “cake roll” of porchetta and pulled pork. There are a few à la carte items—if potatoes pallaison, cubes with cod-roe hollandaise, are an option, go for it. Moderate.
