At almost 21 years old, Robert Wiedmaier’s French spot feels a world away from 2020 dining culture. When was the last time you saw a foot-tall chef’s toque? Or a cloche? Still, jovial servers keep the quietly plush room from feeling stuffy, and—copious amounts of butter aside—the food is hardly stuck in the past. Think of this as a flexible tasting menu: You choose either four, five, or six courses. Even if dishes such as a cognac-scented lobster timbale skew rich, we recommend making room for a cheese plate. Very expensive.