100 Very Best 2020There’s a lot of fermentation happening around DC—in the form of pickles and krauts and other acidic delights—but when it comes to creativity, chef Brad Deboy rules them all at this daytime cafe/nighttime hot spot. A glass jar of saffron-scented green beans and mushrooms perks up any lineup of dinner dishes, while earthy kimchee paves slabs of yogurt-covered sourdough. Speaking of, the other move here is to order anything that comes out of the oven: fluffy biscuits with ham and cornichons, lunchtime baguette sandwiches, and morning guava turnovers. Inexpensive to moderate.
