100 Very Best Restaurants: #58 – Agni


There’s an air of playfulness at this southern Indian dining room with colorful paintings on the wall, party-hat-shaped dosas on the kids’ menu, and egg bajji, a clever riff on Scotch eggs with a creamy tomato sauce. Fiery shrimp ulli theeyal combines plump seafood with shallots and coconut. Curries run from mild chicken pooled with yogurt and deluged with curry leaves to a tongue-searing Chettinad goat. A finish of rasamalai—creamy balls of paneer in a sweet, milky brew—delivers cool comfort. Inexpensive.