Michael White’s riverside restaurant is most glorious in summer, but the cozy, brick-walled dining rooms are charming in winter, too. Order the salumi board—we go straight for the pork-belly terrine, 20-month-aged prosciutto, and savory Parmesan gelato. For pastas, we gravitate to truffled ricotta ravioli and the flat rounds known as corzetti, here served with duck ragu. Another wintry attraction: the satisfying red-wine-braised short ribs with gremolata. Expensive.