Cabbage was not something we ever imagined getting excited about. But that was before we tried the tender, charred leaves painted with rich oxtail jam and mole verde at Victor Albisu’s mod-Mex dining room. Now we’d come just for that. Albisu creates Technicolor flavors that feel entirely new but never forced. Shrimp and cuttlefish are sliced into ribbons and tossed with a tangy, coconutty marinade. (We mopped up every last drop.) Meanwhile, his family-style meat platters are a more primal thrill. Expensive.
