For us, the big question when we’re eating Afghan is: Aushak or mantu? These laid-back spots don’t make you choose, thanks to a platter featuring the garlicky yogurt-slathered dumplings with both scallion-and-leek and beef fillings. (If you ask, they may also add a pumpkin version to the array.) A pileup of charbroiled lamb shoulder, rib chops, and tenderloin is another combo plate we dig. You could call it a meal, but what about the sabzi, fried triangles of dough filled with greens? Or the roasted eggplant with garlic yogurt? We always over-order just to rack up a few days’ worth of leftovers. Moderate.