In a year marked by ICE raids and anti-immigrant rhetoric at the highest levels of government, last night’s RAMMY Awards highlighted just how much DC’s dining scene is powered by the talent of immigrants. Some of the biggest winners of the night were immigrants.
Chef Seng Luangrath, the Laotian refugee turned chef behind Thip Khao, Baan Mae, and Paedek, won Restaurateur of the Year. Carlos Delgado, who represents his Peruvian roots at Causa and Amazonia in Shaw, was named Chef of the Year. Daru and Tapori chef Suresh Sundas, who grew up in Nepal, was named Rising Culinary Star of the Year. The teams behind 2Fifty BBQ (Casual Restaurant of the Year) and Latin American destination Mita (Formal Fine Dining of the Year) also took pride in their immigrant roots on stage.
“This is unbelievable as a refugee daughter, an immigrant who tried to do her best to show her culture through food, coming from Laos. It’s such a tiny, small country that is unknown,” Luangrath said in an emotional acceptance speech. When she first started cooking her native cuisine, it was available only on a “secret” menu within a Thai restaurant. Now, she has multiple restaurants starring the food. “It’s just been unbelievable how Lao food is being well-known all over the country.”
The local food and drinks awards gala—hosted by the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center—is the biggest local hospitality industry event of the year. An anonymous panel of food and media professionals determines the majority of winners, while the public votes on four categories, including best brunch and best bar. Only dues-paying members of RAMW are eligible for most of the awards, except the publicly voted ones.
The night was not without controversy. Alicia Wang, the executive pastry chef behind Albi, Yellow, and La’ Shukran, was named Pastry Chef of the Year. However, a photo of another Asian American pastry chef—Susan Bae of Moon Rabbit—was shown on the screen when Wang’s name was announced. Bae’s photo also appeared next to Wang’s name in a printed program for the event. Although Wang was there, she did not go on stage. Instead, her team accepted the award on her behalf. “Um, this picture is actually of Susan Bae, which is a little bit… hmmm,” one of her colleagues told the crowd. “But Alicia is fantastic. She is fantastic, fantastic, fantastic. She is the best.”
You can see a full list of finalists here. Winners are also below, with a star noting publicly voted categories.
New Restaurant of the Year: La’ Shukran
Fast Casual Restaurant of the Year: La Tejana
Casual Restaurant of the Year: 2Fifty Texas BBQ
Upscale Casual Restaurant of the Year: Tail Up Goat
Formal Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year: Mita
Cocktail Program of the Year: Jane Jane
Beer Program of the Year: Atlas Brew Works
Wine Program of the Year: Era Wine Bar
Employee of the Year: Juan Sanchez – Cafe du Parc and Willard’s Peacock Alley
Manager of the Year: Lorena Reyes – Founding Farmers
Service Program of the Year: El Cielo
Pastry Chef or Baker of the Year: Alicia Wang – Yellow/Albi/La’ Shukran
Rising Culinary Star of the Year: Suresh Sundas – Daru
Chef of the Year: Carlos Delgado – Causa/Amazonia
Restaurateur of the Year: Seng Luangrath – Baan Mae, Padaek, and Thip Khao
*Best Bar of the Year: Tune Inn Restaurant and Bar
*Best Brunch of the Year: Le Diplomate
*Favorite Gathering Place of the Year: The Dew Drop Inn
*Hottest Sandwich Spot of the Year: Jetties
Allied Member of the Year: Keany Produce & Gourmet
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
