Kushi: Best of Breakfast and Brunch 2012

Kushi has closed, but its legacy lives on. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

This sushi restaurant/izakaya feels like a low-key lounge on Sunday mornings, when the open, industrial room becomes a club for live Latin jazz and reggae. It’s a fittingly mellow scene for a meal of clean, pure flavors. Steak and eggs is the lone nod to brunch traditionalists, but you’re here for the Ocean’s Oyako Don, strips of sashimi artfully laid atop steamed rice, or the Chicken Oyako Don, which tastes like a cross between what you’d find at a scruffy Tokyo iza-kaya and KFC. The four cocktails range from soothing (a yuzu mimosa) to zippy (a wasabi-spiked Bloody Mary). Sunday 11 to 3.

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