100 Very Best Restaurants 2014: Mintwood Place
No. 21 on this year's list.
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Jessica Voelker, Anna Spiegel
Mintwood's dishes, such as this Bolognese, draw an international fan club. Photograph by Scott Suchman.
Comments () | Published January 28, 2014
100 Best Restaurants 2014 100 Best Restaurants 2013 Best Breakfasts 2012

Mintwood Place
Address: 1813 Columbia Rd. NW, Washington, DC 20009
Phone: 202-234-6732
Neighborhood: Adams Morgan
Cuisines: French, American, Breakfast
Opening Hours: Tuesday through Thursday 5:30 to 10:30 PM, Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11:30, and Sunday 5:30 to 10:30.
Nearby Metro Stops: Woodly Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan
Price Range: Inexpensive
Dress: Upscale Casual (jeans okay)
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Not Needed
Best Dishes Beet salad with goat-cheese “pies”; flammekueche, an Alsatian tart with bacon and onion; steak tartare with tiny spuds; lamb-tongue moussaka; whole boneless dorade with Picholine olives and fennel; cassoulet; skate wing with eggplant caponata; apple pie in a skillet.
Price Details: Starters $8 to $18, entrées $16 to $28.

“Surprise and delight” is a buzzy corporate marketing strategy these days, and although there’s nothing cookie-cutter or commercial about this woodsy Adams Morgan restaurant, you can’t help but think chef Cedric Maupillier has taken the slogan as his credo. Order hushpuppies and they’ll turn up studded with bits of escargot. Steak tartare is classically rendered, except for the pile of warm fried cubes of potato tossed atop it. A beet salad is brilliantly reimagined as a pressed sandwich, oozy with goat cheese.

It’s a testament to Maupillier’s talent that none of his playfulness feels gimmicky or in-your-face. The room, with its tiled open kitchen and antiquey wrought-iron accents is one of the coziest spaces around, but you’ll have to lean in close for intimate conversation—it’s also one of the loudest. 

Open: Tuesday through Friday for dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. 

Don’t miss: Chicken-liver tartine; bacon-and-onion tart; suckling-pig croquettes with mole sauce; bacon cheeseburger; cassoulet; roast chicken; tagliatelle Bolognese; brownie sundae.

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Posted at 04:50 PM/ET, 01/28/2014 RSS | Print | Permalink | Comments () | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews