Long, picnic-style tables aren’t just laden with food at Moa—they practically sing. Marinated beef ribs and onions sizzle in their skillet, a cauldron of heady fishcake soup bubbles long after arrival, and a hot-pot casserole of tender pork ribs, rice cakes, and kimchee keeps an ebullient tempo thanks to the blazing flame beneath. The chorus isn’t all show. Flavors are lively, as is presentation: A waitress plucks a full head of pickled napa cabbage from the aforementioned stew, snips it with shears into bite-size ribbons, and apportions the soup among individual bowls. The spicy house condiment—a blend of soy, toasted chilies, scallion, and sesame—matches the vibrance and should be liberally used. Like the shareable dishes, cocktail carafes of soju blended with fresh watermelon purées can easily serve two, making the seemingly steep prices fairly tame. The one dull element: an industrial-park setting surrounded by auto-repair shops.
Where you can get it: 12300 Wilkins Ave., Rockville; 301-881-8880
Also good: Mandu (dumplings); seafood pancake; bibim bap.