Food

DC’s Fanciest Junk Food, Ranked

Cheffy spins on our favorite junk food.
Get your fill of fancy potato chips at Kinship. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

It’s an era when even pricey restaurants are embracing foods formerly consumed on La-Z-Boys. Sometimes the results are magic. Other times not so much. Here’s a sampling from across the spectrum.

1. Potato chips with osetra caviar

Cost: $80.

Inspiration: Chips and sour-cream dip.

Major upgrade: Caviar from the Caspian Sea.

Where: Kinship, 1015 Seventh St., NW.

2. Twice-loaded pierogi

Cost: $8.

Inspiration: Potato skins.

Major upgrade: The dumplings are stuffed with cheese in addition to the traditional potato-onion mixture, then topped with bacon and sour cream.

Where: Marble & Rye, 2501 Columbia Pike, Arlington.

3. Bone-marrow tots

Cost: $12.

Inspiration: Tater tots.

Major upgrade: Short rib, Irish cheddar, and bone marrow.

Where: Bonfire, 1132 19th St., NW.

4. Pepperoni pizza rolls

Cost: $7.

Inspiration: Totino’s pizza rolls.

Major upgrade: House-made pepperoni, fontina, and ricotta.

Where: The Partisan, 709 D St., NW.

5. Cereal-milk soft-serve

Cost: $5.

Inspiration: A bowl of corn flakes.

Major upgrade: Whole milk steeped with corn flakes and brown sugar, then given a spin in an ice-cream maker.

Where: Momofuku CCDC, 1090 I St., NW.

This article appears in our July 2016 issue of Washingtonian.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.