Inside José Andrés’s sur-realist hideaway, pizza is nearly as thin as air and basil froth is eaten with spoons made of Parmesan. It’s a wild trip—a celebration of both art and science—that takes place around a kitchen-facing bar and will cost you roughly 500 bucks a person. If you’ve taken it before, you’ll recognize some of the twists and turns (such as “dragon’s breath,” a meringue dipped in liquid nitrogen that causes smoke to billow from your nose). Still, head chef Josh Hermias has some excellent new dishes up his sleeve—super-sweet Dungeness crab sided with green capsules that taste like broccoli-and-cheddar soup, or snail caviar in rabbit sauce (the creation is dubbed Fast and Slow—get it?). Very expensive.
Also great: Uni toast; Scottish langoustine; fried doughnut.