100 Very Best Restaurants: #23 – Marcel’s

Cost:

Robert Wiedmaier in lounge at Marcel's. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

They don’t make restaurants like Marcel’s anymore—which is why Robert Wiedmaier’s bastion of French fine dining is such a delight. A baby grand piano enlivens the lounge, while chefs turn out Old World delicacies such as grilled squab or Dover sole swimming in beurre blanc. The grande dame avoids stuffiness thanks to an innovative, oft-changing menu and gracious service. You can build a seven-course tasting menu from any of the 20-plus dishes or opt for more generous portions of just three. Sommeliers are equally accommodating and are quick to recommend the perfect glass of Bordeaux over a pricier pairing. Very expensive.
Also great: Mussel-and-escargot gratin; boudin blanc with pork belly and Madeira; duck with shiitake mushrooms and chestnuts; soufflé du jour.

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Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Logan Circle.

Anna Spiegel
Food Editor

Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.

Jessica Sidman
Food Editor

Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.