They don’t make restaurants like Marcel’s anymore—which is why Robert Wiedmaier’s bastion of French fine dining is such a delight. A baby grand piano enlivens the lounge, while chefs turn out Old World delicacies such as grilled squab or Dover sole swimming in beurre blanc. The grande dame avoids stuffiness thanks to an innovative, oft-changing menu and gracious service. You can build a seven-course tasting menu from any of the 20-plus dishes or opt for more generous portions of just three. Sommeliers are equally accommodating and are quick to recommend the perfect glass of Bordeaux over a pricier pairing. Very expensive.
Also great: Mussel-and-escargot gratin; boudin blanc with pork belly and Madeira; duck with shiitake mushrooms and chestnuts; soufflé du jour.