Is any pizzeria worth braving I-270 traffic for? Yes, if it’s Tony Conte’s 44-seat Neapolitan shop. This isn’t pizza—it’s a revelation at the hands of a “dough nerd,” as servers describe Conte, who can be seen peeling pies from the oak-fired oven. Conte traded decades in fine dining to pursue his passion, which shows: Airy, char-pocked crusts are the best in Washington, complemented with toppings such as fior di lattecheese with mushroom Bolognese. Just go early—when the dough’s gone, the doors close. Moderate.
Also great: Beets with persimmon; braised fennel with goat cheese and citrus; pizza Margherita; vanilla soft-serve with coffee-caramel.