100 Very Best Restaurants: #24 – Inferno Pizzeria Napoletana

Vanilla soft-serve at Inferno Pizzeria Napoletana. Photograph by Scott Suchman

Is any pizzeria worth braving I-270 traffic for? Yes, if it’s Tony Conte’s 44-seat Neapolitan shop. This isn’t pizza—it’s a revelation at the hands of a “dough nerd,” as servers describe Conte, who can be seen peeling pies from the oak-fired oven. Conte traded decades in fine dining to pursue his passion, which shows: Airy, char-pocked crusts are the best in Washington, complemented with toppings such as fior di lattecheese with mushroom Bolognese. Just go early—when the dough’s gone, the doors close. Moderate.
Also great: Beets with persimmon; braised fennel with goat cheese and citrus; pizza Margherita; vanilla soft-serve with coffee-caramel.

Ann Limpert
Executive Food Editor/Critic

Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.

Food Editor

Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.

Jessica Sidman
Food Editor

Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.