Linguiça-stuffed clams, mayo- or butter-gilded lobster rolls, and other impressive renditions of New England fare are celebrated at this nautically inspired dining room in the shadow of Nats Park. While they’re reason enough to grab a table overlooking the Anacostia River, it’s chef Kyle Bailey’s more innovative takes that keep us most excited to return. Cacciatore is making a comeback, but nobody except for Bailey is trying to pull it off with eel—and it’s a marvel. A martini dashed with manzanilla sherry and pickle brine makes for a perfect prelude. Moderate.
Also great: Clam chowder; johnnycake with smoked-trout salad; cheeseburger; roast-beef sandwich; fried-fish platter.