Changes are afoot at our top-ranked restaurant on last year’s list. For one, the fanciful cocktails that greeted you at the door have been replaced by glasses of sparkling wine. At our recent dinner, the kitchen had traded much of its whimsical dinnerware for simpler plates. And the price—$280 in the dining room, including drink pairings, tax, and tip—is set to rise to $325 come April. What has stayed the same: stellar service and the ability of Aaron Silverman and Scott Muns’s cooking to knock us back with delight. Take the tasting menu’s terrific opening act, masa puffs filled with mole or garlic crema. Or the seafood courses, whether a filet of bass “scaled” with thinly sliced grapes or an abalone panna cotta. One thing is for certain—as Pineapple evolves, we can’t wait to see what Silverman and company pull off next. Very expensive.
Also great: Barely cooked salmon with white-wine sauce; caviar with bone-marrow brioche ($125 supplement); squash-blossom taco; caramel gooseberries.