This Brookland wine bar could have gotten away with a few charcuterie plates. After all, co-owner Sebastian Zutant is a star somm whose offbeat menu of wines from France and Virginia—including his own label, Lightwell Survey—is a major attraction on its own. Plus, co-owner Lauren Winter, a prominent restaurant designer (also Zutant’s wife and business partner), has created a stunning Parisian dining room complete with ostrich-feather chandeliers. But the bistro fare is just as much of a draw. Kombu-enriched onion soup and a French-dip sandwich with super-thick-cut frites are reasons enough to call for a toast. Moderate.
Also great: Duck-liver mousse; cauliflower with golden raisins and hazelnuts; coq au vin; chocolate pot de crème.