Northeastern Thai cuisine has had a long moment here, thanks in large part to the fiery cooking at Little Serow in Dupont Circle. You don’t have to be a capsicum addict to love this narrow spot—the kitchen will adjust the spice level to your liking. The tangy, brightly flavored rewards are many, whether a mushroom salad heavy on lime and mint or a pretty platter arrayed with the components of dried-shrimp fried rice. Inexpensive.
Also great: Pork-shoulder salad; pork-cartilage soup; “Crying Tiger” steak; grilled Cornish game hen; sticky rice with coconut custard.