“Are you familiar with Korean and Cajun food?” our server asks before promptly instructing us to forget whatever we know. Thaddeus Kim and chef Daniel Wilcox Stevens offer their own takes on both cuisines—but not necessarily as fusion. Snack on coin-sized kimchee pancakes alongside cracklings so hot and fresh they’re still audibly crackling. One moment, you’ll be indulging in dumplings fattened with braised duck and foie gras; the next, you’ll be digging into fried slices of “shaved” catfish with rémoulade and pickled peppers—a different kind of chips and dip. It might sound a little all over the place, but the comfort food doesn’t feel like whiplash. Moderate.
Also great: Jambalaya; bone marrow with onion jam and brioche; short-rib lettuce wraps; mokokarae (curry) and pasta; beignets; chocolate pot de creme.