Cheap Eats 2018: 1947

Between the neon out­-line of the Taj Mahal and the wall of Indian celebrities, this dining room feels a dance sequence away from a Bollywood set. The real show, though, is on the table, where bowls keep warm atop individual flames. A “must try” label will lead you to airy minced chicken balls simmered in a marigold-colored curry. Staples such as dalare also a good measure of any Indian kitchen, and the version here is particularly dreamy. Also good: Biryani; delhi ki nehari (lamb with caramelized onions); baingan Bharta (roasted eggplant).

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