Between the neon out-line of the Taj Mahal and the wall of Indian celebrities, this dining room feels a dance sequence away from a Bollywood set. The real show, though, is on the table, where bowls keep warm atop individual flames. A “must try” label will lead you to airy minced chicken balls simmered in a marigold-colored curry. Staples such as dalare also a good measure of any Indian kitchen, and the version here is particularly dreamy. Also good: Biryani; delhi ki nehari (lamb with caramelized onions); baingan Bharta (roasted eggplant).