Cheap Eats 2018: Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken

Photograph by Anna Spiegel.

You can never replicate an institution, but elements come close—at least in fla-vor and friendly wel­-come—at the first Washington-area franchise of the legendary Tennessee fried-chicken joint (now with 20-plus locations). We’re starstruck by the crackling pieces of white and dark meat, tinged ochre by spices that burn as slow as the classic soul playing in the background. Sides are bit players—decent collards, mac and cheese, slaw—though it’s worth lingering for chocolate chess pie. Also good: Fried green tomatoes; fried pickles; root-beer float.

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