You can never replicate an institution, but elements come close—at least in fla-vor and friendly wel-come—at the first Washington-area franchise of the legendary Tennessee fried-chicken joint (now with 20-plus locations). We’re starstruck by the crackling pieces of white and dark meat, tinged ochre by spices that burn as slow as the classic soul playing in the background. Sides are bit players—decent collards, mac and cheese, slaw—though it’s worth lingering for chocolate chess pie. Also good: Fried green tomatoes; fried pickles; root-beer float.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
