It’s a cash-only strip-mall joint with a packed parking lot, but that’s where the complaints end. Take a seat in the rustic-cool dining room and you’ll be given a cup of cucumber-scented water. Then peruse the menu of house-made noodles, which range from mellow (a toss of sesame paste and scallions) to singeing (destination-worthy Yibin noodles, with chili oil, ginger, and peanuts). Don’t bypass the condiments—pots of brown-rice vinegar amp up bowls nicely. Also good: Cold black fungus; hot-and-sour rice noodles; Chongqing small noodles.