Let’s address the elephant in the tasting room: Minibar is wildly expensive. Hamilton-tickets expensive. But that’s the way you need to think of it—not as merely a meal but as edible entertainment.
So what pushes José Andrés’s avant-garde place to number one for the first time in its 15 years? The 14-seat counter-within-a-kitchen received a warm make-over whose vibe harks back to its nascent days inside Café Atlántico. New head chef Jorge Hernandez comes from that time, too, and leads the 28-odd-dish progression with finesse. Each little bite is masterful—the pinnacle of creativity and deliciousness.
We thrilled at uni spherified in a jamón orb, a tangy frozen salad, ingenious non-alcoholic pairings that sometimes bested the wine, and a tree of confections in the adjoining Barmini, where you retire for dessert. There’s so much more, but we don’t want to ruin the surprise—you’ll have to see the best show in town yourself.