There’s a reason early birds flock to chef Ryan Ratino’s modernist hot spot: the 19th-century French duck press, which yields only four orders a night. True to Ratino’s style, he seamlessly blends Escoffier-era technique with innovation. Roasted-duck bones are pressed in the antique contraption, turning the juices into a luscious sauce that cloaks two dry-aged duck breasts. Seasonal accoutrements such as a duck-leg tart and apple/ice-wine salad come on the side. Don’t worry if they’re out of duck, though: The place brims with fanciful touches, from the glass bees holding gin cocktails to the broccoli pierogi—a nod to Ratino’s Midwestern roots—showered with Burgundy truffles.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
