There’s a reason early birds flock to chef Ryan Ratino’s modernist hot spot: the 19th-century French duck press, which yields only four orders a night. True to Ratino’s style, he seamlessly blends Escoffier-era technique with innovation. Roasted-duck bones are pressed in the antique contraption, turning the juices into a luscious sauce that cloaks two dry-aged duck breasts. Seasonal accoutrements such as a duck-leg tart and apple/ice-wine salad come on the side. Don’t worry if they’re out of duck, though: The place brims with fanciful touches, from the glass bees holding gin cocktails to the broccoli pierogi—a nod to Ratino’s Midwestern roots—showered with Burgundy truffles.