Chef Tae Strain hasn’t just recharged this CityCenterDC branch of David Chang’s empire—he’s blown it up. Gone are the bao and ramen that made Chang famous nearly two decades ago. In their place are addictive bing—warm disks of soft, Chinese-style bread—served with dips that you’ll want to order one after the next, including butter with honey and gochugaru (Korean chili flakes), creamy smoked-trout, and zesty pimiento cheese. Next, we could skip straight to the larger shares, whether a camera-ready grilled chicken with chicken-fat rice or branzino sided with lettuce cups and one favorite old Chang touch—his ginger-scallion sauce. Moderate.