Tasting menus can sometimes feel as solemn as Sunday Mass. Aaron Silverman’s Barracks Row hideaway is just the opposite, unfussy and fun. Your ticket price—$325, drinks, tax, and tip included—gets you nine or so courses that wander around the globe. Some, such as a blood-sausage-topped toasted-rice custard that tastes like a cross between Thai larb and crème caramel, are mindblowingly creative (drink pairing: smoky Märzen beer spritzed with sherry from a grandmotherly perfume bottle). Others are more by the book but still manage to surprise and wow, whether a duo of black and white mole sauces with warm tortillas—plated on gilded china—or poached turbot fin over a glorious distillation of English peas. Throw in warm, kind service and a funked-up soundtrack and the result feels like a party you never want to leave. Very expensive.