Every Thai restaurant has a papaya salad, but this northeastern Thai spot shows off five versions. The one you don’t want to miss is the fermented-fish-enhanced somtum muor, loaded with eggplant, pickled greens, green beans, and pork rinds, plus rice noodles that mimic strands of papaya. In fact, every dish here tastes amped up. Khao soi comes in a vividly spiced coconut curry. But it’s the whole fried rockfish smothered in herbs, cashews, and lime dressing that draws the most “oohs.” The fish is cut into chunks, then crisped golden brown, so no need to worry about bones. Inexpensive.